The Grapevine: Grenache - The Soul Of Mediterranean Reds
By Josh Spurling : Photo by Josh McFadden - Post Date: 02.01.2011
Grenache is one of the most prolific grape varieties in the world. According to most sources, the grape is of Spanish descent, though some believe it was first identified on the Italian island of Sardinia. Regardless, it is one of the most planted varietals in the world and one worth exploring.
A late ripening grape, it needs hot, dry conditions to thrive, much like those found in southern France and along Spain’s eastern coast. The flavor of grenache differs depending on where it is grown. Grenache offers aromas and flavors of red berries and ample peppery spice with low acidity, tannin, and color. The grape is often blended with other varieties such as syrah, carignan, mourvedre, and cinsault.
Spain is home to some of the oldest mourvedre vines in the world, some of them more than 100 years old. The climate provides the perfect conditions for grenache to fully ripen, and many producers make wines based entirely on the grape. In backwater areas such as Calatayud, Campo de Borja, and La Mancha, these wines can be had for $10 or less. The grape is also used as a blending partner with tempranillo in Rioja and with carignan and syrah in Priorat and Montsant, where the wines tend to be a little more structured, serious, and pricey.
In France, grenache is the dominant grape throughout the south with prominence in the Rhone Valley and Provence as well as throughout Languedoc-Roussillon. Here, grenache is usually used as a blending partner, most notably in Cotes du Rhone, Vacqueyras, and Chateauneuf du Pape.
Cotes du Rhone produces grapes from a large number of areas along the Rhone River. Most of these wines are a blend of 60–70% grenache with smaller amounts of syrah, mourvedre, and assorted others. The wines tend to be medium bodied, fruit-driven, and a bit spicy with more acidity and structure than their Spanish brethren. Certain Cotes du Rhones such as Rasteau and Sablet, can be bigger, richer, pricier, and more age worthy.
The growing regions of Chateauneuf du Pape, Vacqueyras, and Gigondas are all located near Avignon. In these areas, especially Chateauneuf du Pape, the vines get older, the soils more rocky, and the wines more dark-fruited, meaty, and long lived. Cherished by collectors, many versions of Chateauneuf du Pape can improve for ten years or more. Vacqueyras and Gigondas are often described as “little brothers” to Chateauneuf du Pape.
Farther south in Provence and west in Languedoc and Roussillon, grenache is a mixed bag. There are many styles and types of grenache with varying quality levels. In the Rhone Valley, the grape is typically used as a blender. Closer to the Mediterranean, we see riper fruit and lower acidity. Many of these wines carry an aroma and flavor of garrigue, referring to the shrubby wild herbs that grow throughout the countryside. Think rosemary, lavender and thyme!
At the end of the day, grenache is delicious as either a stand-alone wine or as a blend. If you really want to enjoy it, roast a leg of lamb slathered with olive oil, garlic and rosemary, open a bottle, and call it a night.
Josh owns and operates Table Wine (tablewinesasheville.com), a retail store focused on wines from small family estates and producers. He has worked in the wine business for nearly 13 years. He can be reached via email at josh@tablewineasheville.com or by phone at 828.505.8588.
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