First generation Italian-American Victor Chiarizia is an accomplished glass artist. Creative by nature, Victor is adventurous and passionately committed to new endeavors. Ten years ago, he embarked on an artistic journey that began in the woods of southern Italy and is burgeoning in an underground cave at his home and glass studio in Fairview. Upon entering this structure, one is met by commingling scents—earth, mold, and the unmistakable pungency of cheese.

While on vacation in Italy, Victor and some friends were returning from a day of chestnut hunting in the woods (a favorite pastime in that part of the world) when they came across several roadside farm stands offering fresh, handcrafted cheese.

“It reminded me of when I was young and used to make cheese with my father,” says Victor. “The experience inspired me to make my own cheese.”

The cheese bunker, or cheese cave, is lined on three sides by finished walls (he even faux painted them brick) and movable shelves. A concrete floor and natural rock that juts out and forms the back wall give the cheese what Victor calls terroir, a word denoting the unique characteristics derived from the soil, weather, and location.

Cheese making requires formulas, equations, precise timing and temperature, elaborate equipment, and love. As we tour the cave, Victor checks the timer on his belt and informs me it’s time to go see if the milk has curdled. As a creative soul, it’s impressive to see him keep such meticulous records.

A considerable amount of planning went into this new venture. For milk, Victor made arrangements with his neighbor who raises grass-fed Jerseys. He even had to secure a milk haulers license. Working with the state, he was able to lease a pasteurizer, and locally sources his other equipment. For now he is focusing on crafting blues: Asiago, Romano, and some grating style cheeses such as Parmigiano. He is also working on new recipe development.

Handcrafting artisan cheese takes time. Before it’s ready to be consumed, it has to age a minimum of 60 days and, for certain kinds, it can take years. “Making cheese is an art,” he says. The aging process, or affanaige, is a very important part of making cheese. This is where the cave comes in and explains why Victor spent so much time and effort on its construction.

Cheese rounds in varying sizes and stages of affanaige line the shelves, provolone rounds hang from the ceiling, and pungent feta ferments in sealed buckets. Victor sells his cheese at the North Asheville Tailgate Market and area restaurants including Sugar Beet Café & Deli and Vinnie’s Neighborhood Italian restaurant.

“It’s in my nature to create,” declares Victor. “Whether is building my home, making glass, or crafting cheese.”

Visit his studio at 327 Flat Creek Road in Fairview and online at victorchiarizia.com. Victor can be reached at 828.551.5739 and victorchiarizia@bellsouth.net.

Check out the Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project's Get Local feature that highlights cheese this month. Find out where to buy and what local restaurants are participating in the Get Local program.