It’s been a tough couple of decades for Beaujolais, the region just south of Burgundy known for its fruit-forward, easy-drinking red wine produced from the gamay grape. The area fell victim to its own success in marketing Beaujolais Nouveau, a wine rushed through fermentation and meant to be enjoyed as a celebration of harvest. It has an intentional tutti-frutti, almost Kool-Aid character to it. Unfortunately, it became the reference point for many people when they thought of Beaujolais. A lot of hype over an arguably marginal wine during a two- to three-week time period around Thanksgiving, then forgotten for the remainder of the year.

That’s a real shame. True Beaujolais is perhaps the quintessential late summer red. It has lots of ripe berry flavor but only a small amount of tannin, the bitter, mouth-drying component that can leave your mouth dusty after sipping a big cabernet or other, deeply flavored red wine. Less tannin means the wine can even take a bit of a chill without the bitterness taking center stage. In fact, I think most Beaujolais is best when served slightly chilled. It’s the perfect accompaniment for a casual cookout, with enough flavor for burgers, brats, barbecued chicken, or whatever you’ve got on the grill.

Beaujolais is best when consumed in its youth (the 2009 vintage is on the shelves now). A Beaujolais-Villages from a good producer will likely set you back just a bit over $10 and it begs to be enjoyed right away. There are detractors who will say Beaujolais is not a “serious” wine. Okay, maybe they have a point. But, why can’t wine be casual and fun? The world of wine is filled with enough serious wines. I’m one of those who is much more likely to enjoy a glass of wine barefoot in shorts and a tie-dyed T-shirt on the deck than sitting at the dining table. If it’s hot, I will probably plop an ice cube in my glass to cool things off. The ice adds a refreshing quality and brings the fruit back into focus.

Still, there are Beaujolais wines that fall into the realm of more serious consideration. These come from highly-rated vineyards located in and around ten villages that are allowed to add their own name to the label, and are known as Cru Beaujolais. While still produced from the gamay grape, the wines from these villages tend to be more structured and show more depth of flavor. Many have the tannin and body to allow them to age several years, and can display characteristics similar to their pinot noir cousins just a bit farther north in Burgundy. Some of the best known are Moulin-a-Vent (typically with a windmill on the label), Julienas, Morgon, and Fleurie. A bottle of Cru Beaujolais will set you back around $17. Not cheap, but still reasonable enough to give it a try. I suggest starting with a Beaujolais-Villages. Pop it in the fridge for 30–45 minutes before serving, and see what you think. Remember, this is wine to be enjoyed, not studied. Salut!

Asheville resident Rob Campbell has more than 25 years in the wine business, as retailer, distributor, restaurateur, and enthusiastic consumer. He welcomes comments or questions and can be reached at wino4now@aol.com.