By Gina Trippi
Education awaits in a bottle of wine, each with its own history, tradition and terroir.
Tannat is indigenous to South West France, where it is the main grape in the red wines of Madiran. The grape originated in the Basque country and derives its French name from its high tannin levels. A thick-skinned grape that produces deeply colored, well-structured wines, Tannat can be tough and austere in youth. With aging, however, the massive tannins round out while nuances of spices, coffee, cocoa and vanilla develop.
Similar to Malbec’s journey to Argentina, this sturdy and elegant grape from Madiran was brought to Uruguay by the French enologist Pascual Harriague in 1860, which is why Tannat is also known in Uruguay as Harriague. Tannat immediately adapted to the South American climate cooled by the oceanic breeze, and in the glass you can taste the terroir as well as the 160 years of history behind the grape.
Tannat thrives in its warm South American climate, producing a bold, black fruit-driven red. Uruguay producers have the freedom to blend firm Tannat with any other grape whereas Madiran law restricts Tannat’s blending grapes to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the indigenous grape Fer. In Uruguay, winemakers have become so enamored with Tannat that it is now considered Uruguay’s national grape.
Considered one of the most environmentally sustainable countries in the world, Uruguay is also the fourth largest wine-producing country in South America. In contrast to its neighbors, Chile and Argentina, Uruguay keeps more in step with European producers where smallholdings are most common. Most Uruguayan farms are tiny and family-run, many dating back generations. On these small plots of land, manual tending and harvesting, as well as low yields, are favored; this small country has never needed large-scale chemical fertilizers or insecticides. All of that translates to attention to detail and quality.
The Tannat vines of Uruguay are subtly but noticeably different from those found in France. Because the oldest vines are direct descendants of the pre-phylloxera cuttings brought in in the 19th century, the effect is that Tannat in Uruguay is slightly lower in the tannins for which Madiran has long been known.
We offer Garzon Tannat from Uruguay. The winemaker describes his wine as uncompromisingly full-bodied. It is rich purple in the glass with very fresh aromas reminiscent of red and black fruits such as plums and raspberries surrounded in a delicate spice. On the palate, Garzon Tannat presents a strong personality made of mature tannins, minerality and an earthy, soil identity. In 2018, Wine Enthusiast named Garzon the Winery of the Year and awarded its Tannat 90 Points, drawing attention to “briny hints of ocean air and seashells.”
Tannat, as you can see, is an education in place and production, but also in pairing. Foods bathed in sage, mint, garlic and olive oil as well as blue cheese and toasted walnuts pair beautifully with Tannat.
To learn about Tannat is to love Tannat!
Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big-shop selection with small-shop service. Gina can be reached at gina@metrowinesasheville.com or 828.575.9525.
