{"id":57513,"date":"2023-03-20T16:01:15","date_gmt":"2023-03-20T20:01:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thelaurelofasheville.com\/updatestage\/?p=57513"},"modified":"2023-03-20T16:01:15","modified_gmt":"2023-03-20T20:01:15","slug":"history-feature-food-for-thought","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thelaurelofasheville.com\/updatestage\/lifestyle\/history-feature-food-for-thought\/","title":{"rendered":"History Feature: Food for Thought"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"

Bernice Ramsey Robinson\u2019s cookbook. Photos by Tim Barnwell<\/p><\/div>\n

UNCA Professor Challenges Misconceptions about Appalachian Cuisine<\/h2>\n

By Lauren Stepp<\/p>\n

Erica Abrams Locklear\u2019s maternal grandmother, Bernice Ramsey Robinson, was not one to throw anything away. When she passed, her home on South Turkey Creek in Leicester brimmed with dusty curios like balls of aluminum foil and pie pans. None of this bric-a-brac was surprising\u2014after all, Robinson grew up during the Great Depression when southern folk had no choice but to reuse and recycle.<\/p>\n

But what surprised Locklear, a professor of English at UNCA, was a cookbook her grandmother had created. Made from an old photo album, the bedraggled text offered tips on stretching, mailing fruitcake and removing stains from your clothes. Then there were the recipes.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m not sure what I expected to find in that cookbook,\u201d says Locklear. \u201cBut what I found just completely upended everything I thought I knew.\u201d
\nUp until that point, Locklear had an admittedly \u201cromantic view of what mountain food was.\u201d She imagined her grandmother killing hogs, drying apples and making leather britches. Instead, the cookbook revealed Robinson\u2019s taste for modern, worldly cuisine.<\/p>\n

\"\"Despite living on a rural tobacco farm, Robinson relied on store-bought products to make delicacies like pecan loaves and Kellogg\u2019s Krispies Marshmallow Squares. She also used new-age kitchen tools like a \u201cfood chopper.\u201d Alas, the culinary narrative Locklear believed to be true was very wrong.<\/p>\n

Wanting to find out the real story, Locklear began delving into the history of mountain foodways. Her findings are chronicled in Appalachia on the Table: Representing Mountain Food & People.<\/p>\n

Slated to hit shelves next month, Locklear\u2019s book traces misconceptions about Appalachian cuisine back to the 1870s, when travel writers began sensationalizing the trope of an uncouth hillbilly. These fictional stories debuted in widely read publications, coloring how northerners perceived those living below the Mason-Dixon Line.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe depictions of characters consuming food go right along with a lot of those negative stereotypes,\u201d says Locklear.
\nConsider Through Cumberland Gap on Horseback, for example. Written in 1886 by James Lane Allen, the piece describes a \u201cprimitive society\u201d in eastern Kentucky where a recently developed railway has introduced exotic foods to the mountains. One day, a barefoot native walks up to a fruit stand, sees a bunch of bananas and purportedly exclaims, \u201cBlame me if them ain\u2019t the darnedest beans!\u201d<\/p>\n

The interaction is meant to be humorous, poking fun at the backwardness of Appalachian people. But at a time when bananas were very difficult to transport, their mere presence in Kentucky \u201csignals a kind of modernity and connection with the larger world that Allen seemed unable or unwilling to acknowledge,\u201d Locklear writes.<\/p>\n

Other historical depictions in the late 1800s describe Appalachian food as \u201ccoarse,\u201d or difficult to digest. \u201cWith that, there\u2019s also the implication that the people who are consuming it are somehow unsavory,\u201d says Locklear.<\/p>\n

Of course, times have changed. Foods once snubbed by southbound travelers (think: cornbread, poke sallet and ramps) are being lauded in James Beard Award-winning kitchens. Though this celebration is \u201clong overdue,\u201d says Locklear, we must still be careful to avoid generalizing the foodways of Appalachia.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhenever possible, we should pay homage to the varied histories of mountain cuisine,\u201d writes Locklear. \u201cAs my grandmother\u2019s cookbook taught me, mountain cooks may be just as prone to clip a recipe for date nut fondant or Baby Ruth cookies as they are to save one for chow chow.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pre-order a copy of the book at UGAPress.org<\/a> or at Malaprop\u2019s Bookstore\/Caf\u00e9. A book launch, with author Erica Abrams Locklear in conversation with chef John Fleer, will be held on Tuesday, April 18, at 6 p.m. at Malaprop\u2019s.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Erica Abrams Locklear\u2019s maternal grandmother, Bernice Ramsey Robinson, was not one to throw anything away. When she passed, her home on South Turkey Creek in Leicester brimmed with dusty curios like balls of aluminum foil and pie pans.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":14,"featured_media":57517,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[94,57],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-57513","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-heritage","category-lifestyle"],"yoast_head":"\nHistory Feature: Food for Thought - The Laurel of Asheville<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Erica Abrams Locklear\u2019s maternal grandmother, Bernice Ramsey Robinson, was not one to throw anything away. 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