Photo by Tim Barnwell
A Taste of South Africa in Black Mountain
By Emma Castleberry
Nestled in a farmhouse built in 1912, on the corner of a quiet street in Black Mountain, you’ll find The Bush. Though this dining establishment has a lauded reputation for turning out hearty, flavorful foods, it’s more than a restaurant—it’s a gathering place, with an open-air vibe that transports visitors to the South African savanna.
The farmhouse used to be owned by a woman named Grandma Lindsay and had a couple of other iterations before it became The Bush—including as Roots and Fruits Market and the Full Moon Café. “I walked down the street and I saw it was closing and I was like, this is meant to be,” says owner Mark Henegan.
Mark Henegan, owner
In the true spirit of The Bush—a phrase that, in Henegan’s native South Africa, refers to a large area of wild, untamed land—all the cooking at the restaurant is done in an outdoor kitchen. The TV over the bar, rather than playing sports games, plays wildlife channels. Nearby the outdoor cooking area, a gated space houses a small menagerie of happy, healthy animals, mostly rescued. Each has a nameplate on the fence so you can address them personally. Billy the Goat was rescued from a neglectful backyard situation—Mark handed $100 to the homeowner and said, “I’m taking the goat.”
When Mark adopted Candy the Pig, the restaurant’s mascot, he was told she was a “miniature teacup pig.” She must weigh more than 200 pounds now. Ducks and chickens provide eggs, but the animals generally live a life of leisure—one that reflects the experience intended for human visitors to The Bush.
Photo by Tim Barnwell
In the back of the yard, there is a hoop house where Mark hopes to host private events, wine tastings, chef’s tables, and other events at a long, communal table in the winter months. In summer, the garden is overflowing with strawberries, blueberries, zucchini, edible flowers and a unique array of other vegetables like gem squash, grown from seeds that Mark’s mother sent him from South Africa.
Over a glass of Graham Beck Brut Rosé, the South African wine with which Nelson Mandela toasted his release from prison and also enjoyed with the Obamas when they visited South Africa, Mark talks about the ethos of The Bush Farmhouse. Mark’s a seasoned chef, with a long and storied career from Il Buco in New York City, to the opening of his restaurant Madiba in Brooklyn in 1999, and then another Madiba opening in Harlem in 2014. He moved back to NC in the 2000s and split his time between here and New York.
Photo by Tim Barnwell
In the end, the realization of The Bush was all about timing. “This place just came at the right time for me,” he says. In addition to the availability of incredible local produce, Mark mentions the water, weather and air as part of his draw to this region. “With really good water, you can make really good beer, and you can also make beautiful bread,” he says. “With the weather, you can grow stuff all year-round, especially with a hoop house. There’s so many amazing mushrooms you can forage in this area.”
The menu, which uses as many local ingredients as possible, includes both South African classics like bobotie, a curried meatloaf, and other options like a lobster roll and grilled octopus. “I didn’t want to do it totally South African,” he says.“The food is cool and eclectic.” A popular menu item is Mark’s mom’s recipe for salmon cakes, which she ate every night when she came to visit. “I love cooking,” says Mark, who is in the kitchen every day. “I can’t stand paperwork.”
The Bush Farmhouse is Mark Henegan’s house party, and you’re all invited. “The place gets so busy and it’s so much fun,” he says. “At night with all the candles and the music and the lights, you’re transported. You don’t feel like you’re in the city. At The Bush, you can be anywhere in the world.”
The Bush Farmhouse is located at 151 South Ridgeway Avenue, Black Mountain. The restaurant is open every day from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., except for Sundays, when the hours are 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call 828.357.5367 to make a reservation or visit BushFarmhouse.com for more information.
