On the topic of projected beer trends for 2016, most of the craft-brewing universe was in agreement: Lagers are making a comeback.
We’re not talking about the fizzy yellow stuff made by America’s behemoth brewers, but rather true representations of classic European styles produced by a growing cluster of small, independent craft beer makers in America and right here in Western North Carolina.
Of course, the bold, fragrant, and assertive India pale ale (IPA) continues to reign supreme as the most popular craft beer style in the United States, as it has for the past decade. Americans still can’t get enough hops, particularly with new varieties coming out all the time that present a wide spectrum of aromas and flavors, from mango to black pepper.
Many of us craft beer lovers, however, appreciate something more delicate, subtle and refreshing, especially this time of year when our palates are still recovering from the big, bold holiday beers and winter seasonal brews. March ushers in the beginning of spring—and, hopefully, splendid weather to go with it—and lighter lagers are the perfect accompaniment to warm, sunny days, chirping birds, and blooming trees.
Lagers distinguish themselves from ales via one of the four main ingredients in beer: the yeast. Ales are typically fermented at higher temperatures for a relatively brief duration—they’re usually ready within two weeks—which yields the fruity nature of a pale ale or the spicy qualities of a saison. Lagers, on the other hand, utilize yeast strains that work for longer periods of time at cooler temperatures. The result is a smoother, cleaner, mellower beer whose lack of fruity esters and spicy phenols produced by ale yeasts helps showcase the malt character of the beer.
Because lagers take longer to ferment (anywhere from three or four weeks to a few months, depending on the particular style and also the brewmaster’s preference) they take up valuable tank space. For large craft breweries such as Sierra Nevada, New Belgium, and Oskar Blues, this isn’t a big issue. When you’re small, however, and tank space is limited, tying up a fermenter or holding tank with a slow-developing lager is not very cost-effective, which is one big reason why most U.S. brewers produce predominantly ales.
That is beginning to change as breweries keep in tune to craft beer drinkers’ ever-evolving tastes, and in 2016, craft lagers is where it’s at.
Brevard Brewing Company was actually ahead of its time when it opened in 2012 as a business focused on classic European-style lagers, while the now hugely popular Hi-Wire Brewing in Asheville made the crisp, pale Hi-Wire Lager one of its four flagship beers when the company launched three years ago.
There are many types of lagers out there, with great examples being made by our local mountain breweries. They include, among others, pilsner (Oskar Blues’ Mama’s Little Yella Pils), Oktoberfest (Highland’s Clawhammer Oktoberfest) and Vienna Lager (Sierra Nevada’s Vienna Style Lager).
So feel free to ditch the hops for a change of pace, and celebrate spring with a clean, refreshing lager. Cheers!
Gary Glancy is a freelance writer, bartender and Certified Cicerone® living in Hendersonville.
