The Grapevine: Cinsault. Just Cinsault.

By Gina Trippi

You know cinsault, pronounced “san-so,” from its use in rosé wines. But, this punchy, floral, fruity red is also found in red blends including Châteauneuf-du-Pape and, occasionally and magnificently, it goes solo. At Metro Wines, we support it in all its many expressions and, with its tolerance to heat and dry climate conditions, present cinsault as one of the grapes for the future of wine!

Cinsault vines date back centuries in southern France. Since then, cinsault has been traveling. In Morocco and North Africa, for example, it is the leading grape in terms of production due to its tolerance of heat. Wine regions are heating up worldwide but, unlike many varietals, cinsault can handle it.

In 1925, cinsault began to develop its own legacy when it was crossed with pinot noir by Abraham Izak Perold to create South Africa’s signature grape, pinotage. Nothing like pinot noir or cinsault, pinotage is an intense brick red color, with bold aromas and discernible flavors of black fruits, roasted red peppers, red and black licorice, smoked tobacco, crispy bacon and whiffs of dried sage. Palate weight is generally just short of shiraz and zinfandel.

This versatile grape is grown worldwide, including in Australia, Greece, Italy, America and Lebanon. Usually found blended with other red grapes, a bottle of 100 percent red cinsault is rare but, if you find it, a treasure.

Experience cinsault solo with François Ducrot “Saint-So” Cinsault, smooth and lovely yet offering a concentration of aromas and flavors. Expect a strong nose and palate of purple fruit, grape jelly, spice and a hint of violets. And from Bekaa, Lebanon, comes Vieilles Vignes Tourelles. This 100 percent cinsault, aged eight months in oak, has a palate of pronounced red and black fruit notes with flavors of strawberries and plum. It is lush and almost decadent. Another 100 percent red cinsault is Ou Treffer made by a family in South Africa. We tasted this wine with customers who described it as medium-bodied with raspberries, cherries and spices on the nose and palate.

Cinsault is blended with carignan and zinfandel in Sandlands Red Table Wine from their Lodi vineyards owned by Turley Wine Cellars. With high aromatics and a palate of black cherry, black tea, violet, licorice and leather, this wine has become a favorite. Sandlands wines have limited distribution so start stocking now for Thanksgiving.

When used to make rosé, cinsault is again, generally blended with other grapes, usually grenache, syrah and merlot. But you can taste 100 percent cinsault rosé with Mont Gravet. The concentration of cinsault gives this wine aromas of raspberry and blackberry, a full palate and a longer finish than is typical of this style.

In a blended rosé, cinsault is used to add aromas including raspberry, white peach, tea leaf and rose petals, and flavors of tropical fruits including lychee, guava and papaya. Try Cuvee des Annibals, a blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault.

And there is nothing better than cinsault, rosé or red, with garlic butter and a French baguette!

Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big-shop selection with small-shop service. Gina can be reached at gina@metrowinesasheville.com or 828.575.9525.