The Grapevine
By Elspeth Brown
The reason that most wine labels have a vintage, or year, is because, as any farmer or gardener knows, there are many variables that can affect a year’s crop. Some summers I can grow beautiful, luscious tomatoes and other years the tomatoes are infested with aphids or develop cracks. The same goes for grapes. Not all grapes require the same weather, but most thrive in years when the weather is temperate: warm, dry summers and mild winters with just the right amount of rain.
In April, the buds are just beginning to break on the vines. This is a delicate time. An early hailstorm can decimate an entire crop. A long, wet season can make vines more susceptible to fungal diseases such as downy mildew, black rot and botrytis. Heavy rainfall before harvest can make grapes swell quickly and cause flavors to be diluted.
On the other hand, if vines have too little water, they suffer water stress. Grapes will be smaller with thicker skins. There will not be as much juice produced, but the wine can have great flavor and color. Severe drought stops the ripening and will result in unbalanced wine. Of course, with access to a permanent water source, irrigation can be managed so that the vintner has control over the amount of water that vines receive. Irrigation is used primarily by commercial growers who are more concerned about their wines being consistent from year to year.
The most important time to water is when vines are first planted. If it is not raining, the vines need to be watered every week. In general, grapevines need an average of 20 inches of rain each year. In some warmer areas, more water will be needed.
Even with ideal rainfall, if the grower does not plant the roots in well-drained soil, the vines won’t succeed. Roots that “sit” in water can’t get enough oxygen. The more vines struggle, the fewer grapes are grown, producing stronger flavors with more character and complexity. There are two detrimental times for rainfall: right before fruit set and at harvest. Millerandage, a condition in which grape bunches differ greatly in size and maturity, will occur if there is too much rain before fruit set. Yield will be low and grapes will develop irregularly. If it rains right before harvest, the roots will soak up the water and the balance of sugar and acidity will be thrown off.
It is a miracle that amazing wines are ever produced with all of the variables that can negatively affect grapes. But, thankfully, viticulturists withstand the ongoing weather conditions.
The next time you open a bottle, take note of the year. Close your eyes and try to identify what might have happened during the season. Taste the grape’s journey!
Elspeth Brown is the owner of Maggie B’s Wine & Specialty Store, 10 C South Main Street in Weaverville. For information, visit MaggieBsWine.com or call 828.645.1111.
