Breweries, Wine, and Cheese Lifestyle

Grapevine: Of Time and Terraces

By Gina Trippi

In the mountains, climate conditions can go from sunny to icy in the same day, sometimes within the same hour! Fortunately, wine is more predictable. This wild spring ride calls for wines that can adapt to rapidly changing menus, but still respect the weather. Simply put, the month of May needs slightly heavier whites, that is, wines with a little more body and punch, and reds with a little less of the same, but still unpretentious and focused.

Time Machine, from Bow & Arrow in Oregon, is a white wine that meets this criteria. Bow & Arrow is a subterranean winery located in northeast Portland. Fruit is sourced from a small group of outstanding farmers across Oregon. All wines are made with minimal intervention and are drinkable now. Time Machine Blanc is a flinty combination of Chenin blanc, Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne, with notes of Asian pear and lemon.

Owner Scott Frank says Bow & Arrow is his interpretation of the “Willamette Valley’s humble terroir.” While known for the Burgundian style, Frank says, “The valley I know and love is as much a blue-collar agricultural area as it is a boutique wine destination.” Accordingly, instead of burgundy, Bow & Arrow pays homage to the decidedly working-class wines of France’s Loire Valley. Bow & Arrow sources fruit from farmers who subscribe to Frank’s commitment to drinkability, no pretension and minimal intervention.

Terraces is produced by Roterfaden & Rosswag co-op. The Winery, Weingut Roterfaden, was founded in 2014 by Hannes Hoffmann and Olympia Samara. He hails from Rosswag, Germany, and she from Greece.

They met while studying oenology in Germany. From there, they worked in California, South Africa, Austria, Spain and Greece. But much like Dorothy, they realized that “there’s no place like home,” and set up business in Rosswag, northwest of Stuttgart. The land offers steep, terraced vineyards of pure limestone. All work in the vineyards and cellar is done by hand. Winemaking is minimalist with native yeast fermentation, aging in old barrels and no fining or filtration.

Light garnet in the glass with ruby highlights, the unoaked blend produces aromas of sour cherry, fresh raspberry and violets, with a stony mineral note. On the palate, the wine is lively with refreshing acidity and tannins that provide lift and depth to the fresh fruit and mineral flavors leading to a long finish.

Terraces is a focused, complex blend of Lemberger (Austrian grape known as Blaufränkisch in Germany), Trollinger (known as Schiava in Italy) regent and Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier in France). Why are we telling you the other names for the grapes in this blend? The truth is that some of those names are not as fluid, pleasing to the ear or engaging as French and Italian names. But the grape is the same. Don’t let a less than appetizing name stop you from trying new varietals.

Tame the wild weather with Time and Terraces.

Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big-shop selection with small-shop service. Gina can be reached at or 828.575.9525.

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