Getaria in the Basque Country
By Gina Trippi
Nothing says summer like txakolina. What? First of all, “txakolina” is pronounced like this: chock-oh-lee-nah.
Eric Asimov, wine critic for the New York Times, recently recommended Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina 2020, imported by De Maison Selections in Chapel Hill. Once largely unknown in the US, txakolina has become increasingly popular “when the weather turns warm,” Asimov says.
Txakolina, despite the trend, is still not everywhere. Eighty percent of it is consumed in Spain, but thanks to our local North Carolina importer, we have Ameztoi Txakolina at Metro Wines.
Txakolina is a mildly effervescent, one-of-a-kind wine from Basque Country in Spain. But a bottle of txakolina is more than just a very unique wine; it is the continuation of a centuries-old tradition. The Basque Country is located in the western Pyrenees, straddling the border between France and Spain on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, thought to be inhabited since the 16th century.
A respected producer, Ameztoi farms 20 acres of high-altitude calcareous clay and limestone vineyards on the seaside cliffs of the ancient fishing village of Getaria. Ignacio Ameztoi is the fifth generation of his family to carry on the tradition of making txakolina from old vines dating from 1860 to 2008.
The Ameztoi style is high acidity and about 11 percent alcohol. It has salty and briny notes with a natural fizz using only the native varietal of Hondarrabi zuri. DNA shows this grape is identical to Courbu Blanc in France. Hondarrabi zuri is reminiscent of the high acidity and palate presence of the French grape Petit Manseng.
Fermented in stainless steel tanks, only indigenous yeasts from the vineyard are used. The tanks are closed to preserve natural carbonation, the preferred style of Getaria. This delicate effervescent quality can be obtained through forced carbonation, but not at Ameztoi!
To heighten your experience, try drinking txakolina from the traditional porrón. The exact origin of the porrón is not certain, but it most likely started in Catalonia and has been part of the Spanish wine culture for centuries. Shaped like a watering can, the porrón falls somewhere between a decanter and a magic lamp.
It is likely that the original version of this drinking vessel was made from grapeskins, but you can now find hand-blown porróns from Spain. To drink from the porrón, tilt your head back, hold it high above your head and pour the magic elixir into your mouth without touching the spout. The idea here was to foster communal drinking. Commit, have confidence and practice!
What pairs with txakolina? Martha Stewart says this summer wine is the perfect match for seafood, especially with a Spanish touch, such as spicy mussels and chorizo, pan-fried anchovies or piquillo peppers stuffed with shrimp salad. Or, for a simple serving, consider cured ham, olives and nuts.
Ameztoi txakolina has been described as a lightning bolt hitting the palate. Make your summer sparkle!
Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big shop selection with small shop service. Gina can be reached at gina@metrowinesasheville.com or 828.575.9525.
