By Gina Trippi
Around this time last year, we noticed that Metro Wines customers bought the same red blends again and again. Turned out nearly all wines had one grape in common: Carignan.
Carignan in France, Carignano in Italy, Cariñena in Spain and sometimes spelled Carignane in the US, has come a long way. Carignan began its career as a grape when first imported into France from Algeria, blended with a local French grape such as Cinsault into what was called a “Pinard.” The robust red was mass produced and distributed to the French Army. Distribution of the Pinard, usually half a liter for each soldier, began in 1914 during WWI to boost morale.
As the years passed, because Carignan was highly prolific and survived on little water, the grape became the most planted grape in France in the 1970s. But these grapes were grown for quantity rather than quality which damaged the reputation of Carignan.
Along the way, farmers noticed that, in addition to a remarkable ability to express the specific terroir, Carignan was resilient and heat-resistant. In fact, Carignan is now thought to be the future of wine as it will withstand global warming. As proof, researchers say Carignan is believed to have originated in northern Spain crossing to southern France, growing in the poor rocky soils and thriving in the prolonged dry heat. While many grapes lose their acidity in extreme heat, tasting flat, Carignan remains sharp. And Carignan ripens and is harvested later in the fall. The cooler weather leads to lower sugar levels resulting in lower alcohol.
This is why what was once bulk juice evolved into the perfect wine for the Thanksgiving table, sitting proudly next to Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. Carignan is medium-bodied with no bitter tannins which enables its versatility and ability to pair with a variety of flavors both bold and mild.
Based on the lesson we learned from our customers, we recommend with confidence the 2022 Neyers Sage Canyon Red, a Rhône-style California blend of 35 percent Carignan, 20 percent Mourvèdre, 20 percent Syrah, 10 percent Cinsault, 10 percent Zinfandel, and 5 percent Grenache, for your Thanksgiving table. Wine Enthusiast awarded the bottle 91 points, saying, “Notes of mulled fruit and spice arise on the nose of this wine, and concentrated baked red plums, cassis, dried florals and clove waft across the palate.”
The bottle comes with a solid pedigree. Neyers Vineyards was born of the culinary passions of Bruce and Barbara Neyers. At the time, Bruce was working with Joseph Phelps, and Barbara was cooking for Chez Panisse in Berkeley. While developing their land, Bruce spent the next 25 years traveling with and learning from Kermit Lynch, who taught Bruce the value of small family-owned vineyards, organic practices and Old World winemaking techniques. These established tenets of winemaking form the basis of the Neyers philosophy.
Carignan is a grape with history, endurance, versatility and sustainability. And with only 13.6 percent alcohol, Neyers is a comfortable partner for Thanksgiving 2026.
Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big-shop selection with small-shop service. Gina can be reached at gina@metrowinesasheville.com or 828.575.9525.
