By Elspeth Brown
It feels like the dog days of summer and I’m not drinking much red wine, but this red varietal is a hot one on my radar. Pais grape, pronounced pies, is the new comeback story. Pais grape has been grown in the Americas since 1540 when Spanish priests took it to Mexico to be drunk at religious ceremonies. It is also the oldest grape varietal grown in Chile. It was originally used for bulk or jug wine, but in the 21st century it was forgotten because other French varietals such as Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon took over.
Pais is also grown in North America, where it is known as Mission grape, and in Argentina, where it is called Criolla Chica. This beautiful red wine has notes of juicy cherry, tart cranberry, strawberry and wildflowers. It is the perfect varietal to pair with summer food such as fish, grilled chicken and Mediterranean cuisine, and is even better when chilled.
Pais grape was literally found in the backyards of Chilean vineyards. The vines had been forgotten, and were found growing in brush. In 2007, Louis-Antoine Luyt, a French sommelier, produced his first Pais wine after finding this gem of a grape. He was told that he could not make a fine wine with Pais, and he made it his mission to prove that wrong and to put Pais grape back on the map.
The beauty of Pais grape is that it needs no vineyard management, and it is very easy to grow. The grape varietal is usually dry farmed because it needs very little irrigation. The winemaker is typically not spraying because the grape is disease-resistant. Plus, most of the winemakers producing Pais use the natural yeast on the grapes to enable fermentation. It sounds a lot like how my grandfather and father made wine when I was growing up. In our backyard we had tons of blueberries, naturally occurring blackberries and lots of peach trees.
They would make fruit wine for personal consumption and for our church’s communion, all without any formal aging or fermenting. It was about as natural as it got, and Pais wine is produced a lot like my grandfather’s wine: without much manipulation but tasting a good amount better, if I remember correctly.
I have noticed an increase in customers interested in chilled reds, which is a super fun subject to discuss. Not every red should be chilled. A Gamay, a Pinot Noir and now a Pais are great varietals to put in the fridge. A Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon is much too dry and full-bodied to make for a crushable, cold option. Strong tannins can make the wine unapproachable when chilled. But lighter, more fruit-forward wines like Pais lend themselves well to a refreshing option.
So, the next time you are invited to a pool party or a BBQ, impress your friends with a new, fun and interesting wine. Enjoy!
Elspeth Brown is the owner of Maggie B’s Wine & Specialty Store, 10 C South Main Street in Weaverville. For information, visit MaggieBsWine.com or call 828.645.1111.
