By Gina Trippi
It’s cold. The weather sets the table for two competing wine theories. The seasonal theory holds that one should drink rich red wines in the cold months. But are you really pairing a tannic red with oysters? The pairing-first theory is just that: what pairs with the food, goes with the food, despite the temperature. Neither theory is 100-percent applicable in all situations. But a “winter white” can work in most cases and let both sides claim victory.
Famille Vincent Pouilly-Fuisse Marie-Antoinette 2022, 100% Chardonnay, landed at #69 on the Wine Spectator Top 100 List 2024. Two-thirds of Famille Vincent undergoes oak maturation which contributes to the weight of the wine, resulting in a winter white.
The winemaker says this bottle is “a pale yellow color with hints of green. The nose offers a touch of oak, lots of finesse and minerality with white flowers, lemon and apple scents. On the palate, the wine is fresh, round and fruity with aromas of melon, kiwi, peaches and apricot, and a nice minerality.”
Wine Spectator awarded the bottle 91 Points, saying: “a rich version, bordering on creamy, this peach, apple and stone inflected white is complex and long, with fine balance and a long aftertaste that resonates with fruit and mineral notes.”
L’Alpage Chasselas 2023 is from Switzerland. L’Alpage is a custom cuvée selected by North Carolina importer Eric Solomon to capture the pure minerality and refreshing qualities of Chasselas, grown along the Upper Rhône.
The Swiss know cold! This style of Chasselas, the Swiss say, is a friendly wine perfect after a day of hiking or snowshoeing. Pair L’Alpage with cold-weather favorites, including cave-aged Gruyère or fondue. Respected Critic Jeb Dunnuck awarded this bottle 94 Points.
Theories once held that Chasselas originated in Egypt or in the Middle East. But recent DNA research suggests the grape is indigenous to the shores of Lake Geneva. This thinking is consistent with the theory that the location where the varietal thrives is probably the point of origin. In any case, Chasselas has been grown in Switzerland and parts of Germany for at least 500 years.
Coffele Alzari Soave Classico 2021, 100% Garganega, is deep yellow in the glass with hints of gold. The nose is layered. At first, aromas of mountain herbs, green tea and mineral notes present. Then, after a few minutes, ripe pear, dried fruits, toasted nuts and honey unfold. This dry wine offers volume and softness balanced by a distinct saltiness with a structured finish.
The October harvest of grapes is done by hand. To obtain the finest grapes, bunches are sorted several times, each time selecting only the ripest bunches. Now, here is the magic that turns this wine into a winter white. Sixty percent of the grapes are fermented immediately, but the remaining 40 percent undergo partial drying, called appassimento, for 40 days to concentrate flavors.
Shop a world of winter whites at Metro Wines. Gina Trippi is the co-owner of Metro Wines, 169 Charlotte Street in Asheville. Committed to the community, Metro Wines offers big-shop selection with small-shop service. Gina can be reached at gina@metrowinesasheville.com or 828.575.9525.
