By Leah Shapiro
When selecting a gemstone, designer goldsmith Paula Dawkins advises, “You have to look for one that speaks to you.” It is this relaxed but discerning approach that, combined with her refined eye and honed skills, has informed Paula’s beautiful creations over the last several decades. But, she adds, it wasn’t always so easy to remember. “When I was younger, I was less sure of myself so I needed these big messages to come and send me down a path. And now it’s a much more joyful creation.”
If you walk into the showroom and studio of Jewels That Dance in downtown Asheville, it may be hard to believe that chance played a large part in Paula’s professional path. In 1971, after graduating with a degree in psychology from Appalachian State University, she realized that she needed to get serious about finding a job. One day, an acquaintance told her, “You can earn money by making jewelry.”
Paula Dawkins (Photo by Leah Shapiro)
“So he gave me a lesson and the application to a craft show in Richmond, Virginia. I took my $250 and bought some silver…There you go. My jewelry career was born.” In an experience that Paula can only describe as a “homerun,” she sold out of all of the jewelry she brought with her in a shoebox. After that, she was hooked.
The next couple craft shows, however, didn’t bring in quite as much revenue. But, it wasn’t in Paula’s DNA to give up. “You learn ‘til you get it right,” she says. With an insatiable curiosity, she read book after book on different techniques. For a decade, with a home base in Ashe County, Paula traveled to craft shows around the country, selling her rings, earrings, and necklaces—for as many as 32 weeks a year. Around 1980, she began selling wholesale to galleries and shops such as Saks Fifth Avenue.
In 1983, Paula moved to Asheville. That same year she opened what was then called Jewelry Design on Lexington Avenue. Carol Schniedewind joined the team as co-owner. A couple years later, they changed the store’s name to Jewels That Dance. “After I had the store a year, that was when I decided I wanted to be a jeweler. Up until then, I was just what I thought was a craftsperson,” says Paula, who, though self-taught, began taking local classes at Penland School of Crafts, Hollands School for Jewelers, and Gemvision for training in computer-aided design.
Paula has a constant curiosity. “The biggest part of it, I think, is that I have this need to know how to do stuff. I need to be able to look at something and figure out how to make it, how to do it. I don’t know if it’s a plus or a detriment, but that need to know and to learn is always pushing me forward. Sometimes not on a very straight road, but it’s pushing me forward to improve my techniques, improve my skill, improve my base of knowledge.”
She also says that metal is in her genes. In 1890, her great-great-grandfather, EJ Kennedy, opened a blacksmith shop in Fayetteville, North Carolina, where Paula was born and raised. His four sons joined the business, eventually running it. She has memories of visiting her great uncle Bill in the shop and creating metal sculptures and a circular stairwell. “It took me a while to realize the genetic link: my mother’s side of the family were blacksmiths and machinists…I was genetically predisposed to love fire.”
As Jewels That Dance grew, the inventory began to include an array of other fine jewelry designers. In April 1986, it moved to its current location on Haywood Street, spearheading the revival of commerce in that area.
Custom designs, such as wedding and engagement rings, have always been at the core of the business. “It’s really cool because I’m making these things that are expressions of this love between these two people and hopefully they’re going to wear them for a good long time. And wow, what an honor!” As Asheville has changed over the years, Jewels That Dance has grown with it, becoming a true staple in the community.
“Without my staff, there would be no Jewels That Dance.” The behind-the-scenes team includes Peter Suder (master goldsmith), Stephanie Ellis (designer), and Vadim Ostapovich (design). In the showroom are Kristin McAlister, Marlene Cleavenger, Tori Bailey, Susan Francis, Sheila Padgett, and Patti Hawxhurst.
For her newest collection, to be launched October 21–22, Paula has been creating more “organic, nature-themed” pieces. “I think there are fabulous things floating around in our universe and if you have your pen ready, something is going to pop and come down through the hand and into the pen and boom! There’s a magical piece of art.”
Upcoming events at Jewels That Dance include a trunk show by designer Todd Reed on Friday and Saturday, September 16–17. A preview party takes place on Friday from 5–8 p.m., and the trunk show runs from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Saturday. A trunk show by Gabriel is coming November 18–19.
Jewels That Dance is located at 63 Haywood Street in downtown Asheville. For more information, visit jewelsthatdance.com or call 828.254.5088.
