By Elspeth Brown
The holidays scream for excess spending on presents, party outfits, decadent food and, hopefully, beautiful wines to pair. The big questions I get in the store are: Why does this Chardonnay cost more than the one on the bottom shelf? What makes the Champagne more prestigious than the sparkling wine? Or, why should I pay more than $50 for a bottle of wine?
You’d better be able to taste the difference between a $15 bottle of wine and a $100 bottle! If you are not able to, the winemaker has not done their job.
What makes some wines so expensive? Wine is expensive to make, and the land costs a lot, as does the labor. Smaller, family-run vineyards tend to cost more because they are doing everything themselves from pruning and producing to marketing. Most wine consumers would prefer an organic or biodynamic wine, which also costs more to maintain. The time and effort it can take to be a conscious grower is immense.
There are other factors that play in as well. Lower yields in a vineyard can produce some of the most amazing wine, but can also make it one of the least affordable options. And then there is the aspect of aging the wine. The winemaker’s juice will probably sit in a barrel or tank for at least six months. For more expensive wines, the juice could sit, or be aged, in barrels or bottles for up to two or three years. The wine is just sitting there in the winery’s cellar, not making money.
The grapes from sought after regions and the land that they are grown on are the most expensive aspect though. In Napa Valley, CA, an acre can cost up to $350,000, making it the most expensive area in the US to grow wine grapes. Move to France and expect to dole out $600,000 an acre in the Champagne region and an astounding $2 million an acre for a Grand Cru vineyard in Burgundy. These are just some of the factors that put a higher price tag on a bottle of wine.
Some of my favorite splurge-worthy wines are ones that I can open that night for the celebration. Minor Pinot Noir from California, Le Ragose Amarone from Italy and Catena Zapata from the daughter of the famous Catena wine empire are just some of my favorites. Most grapes, whether it be a Riesling or a Merlot, cost about the same to grow, but my all-time favorite grape, Pinot Noir, is considered to be one of the most expensive wine grape varietals. With such thin skin, it can be difficult to grow and requires perfect conditions. Miner “Gary’s Vineyard” Pinot Noir is one of my all-around favorite wines. This Pinot Noir is warm with spice and rich with ripe fruit. The wine has been aged for 14 months in French oak and the tannins have stayed very soft and luscious. Catena Zapata Malbec has been aged in oak for 18 months in first-, second- and third-use barrels. There is so much love, care and consideration that has gone into this wine, and it must be the richest Malbec I have ever tasted.
The price of prestige is high, but now is the time to savor the wine. Buy the necklace or golf clubs, take the trip and drink the wine. Treasure the time with family and friends and make it a special occasion with a glass of beautiful wine.
Enjoy!
Elspeth Brown is the owner of Maggie B’s Wine & Specialty Store, 10 C South Main Street in Weaverville. For more information, visit MaggieBsWine.com or call 828.645.1111.