grape in vinyeard
By Elspeth Brown
André Tchelistcheff, father of modern California winegrowing, is supposed to have said that “God made cabernet sauvignon, whereas the devil made pinot noir.” That must be why it is my all-time favorite grape. The pinot noir grape has a bad reputation and I’ve always been attracted to things with an unscrupulous past. Pinot noir can be extremely difficult to grow. The grape can be very finicky and needs a lot of attention, but it makes it all worth it in the end.
Pinot noir is the red wine that most consumers start tasting because merlot and cabernet sauvignon can be dry and too tannic for a beginner’s palate. The varietal is highly aromatic, finishing with a light body and flavors of cherry, raspberry, rose petal and a little spice.
Mass-produced pinot noir has been bastardized in the past. Winemakers will add a small amount of syrah or merlot to the wine to darken the color and encourage a fuller-bodied, sometimes more approachable take on the juice. In the US, winemakers are allowed to blend up to 25 percent of other varietals into a wine without being forced to note the grapes on the label. These wines are also more affordable because 100 percent pinot noir grape can be expensive to grow and regulate.
While pinot noir is a great place to start your red wine journey, it is an even better place to come back to. When I taste an exceptional pinot noir, whether it is from France, California or Oregon, the wine immediately excites my senses with the floral bouquet and then tickles my taste buds with either acidity, earthiness or softness from the luscious fruit. When I drink a true expression of pinot noir, I taste exactly what the grapes experienced in the vineyard: the sun, the fog, the temperature and the soil. The grape has very thin skin and takes on all the qualities in the atmosphere.
Having such a thin skin, the grapes are very sensitive to temperature fluctuation. Rot, fungus and mildew can be a big problem. They need lots of sun and a cool climate. The grapes have tight clusters and experience late ripening. All of these factors create an environment for disaster, but if the winemaker is tenacious, they will end up with a gem.
The term “Old World” refers to wines primarily from Europe, such as ones from Germany, France and Spain. New World wines will come from countries outside of Europe. Old World pinot noirs will be lighter in color. New World wines focus heavily on oak while Old World producers are much more conservative. Old World winemakers primarily use natural or wild yeast which gives the wine more earthiness. New World winemakers use cultured yeast that produces a fruitier tasting wine. Old World pinot noir tastes more tannic and acidic, whereas New World pinot noir tends to taste softer. The two different styles can be vastly different, but both possess a finesse only found in pinot noir.
A friend once asked me what I would choose if I could drink only one wine for the rest of my life. Really good pinot noir!
Elspeth Brown is the owner of Maggie B’s Wine & Specialty Store, 10 C South Main Street in Weaverville. For more information, visit MaggieBsWine.com or call 828.645.1111.
